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Chronique du 1er mars 2011 : Small is beautiful, ou le mythe de la petite cuvée du petit producteur Version imprimable Suggérer par mail

L'amateur de vin français semble avoir une attirance toute particulière pour la notion de petites cuvées. Le petit vin du petit producteur dont les bouteilles se cachent dans la petite cave derrière les fameux fagots représente bien cette notion du vin méconnu que chacun aime présenter à ses convives, comme signe d’une bonne connaissance du vin. Pourtant, dans bien des cas, les petites cuvées des petits producteurs ne méritent pas beaucoup d'attention, quand elles sont effectivement petites. Quelques pistes de réflexion...

« Petites cuvées » des « petits producteurs », une question de taille

La notion de petites cuvées représente généralement une cuvée produite à petit volume. Si l'on peut raisonnablement avoir une appréhension face a des cuvées de vins produites en quantité dite industrielle, avec tout ce que l’adjectif peut comporter de péjoratif, encore faut-il se mettre d'accord sur ce que représente le caractère industriel d'une production de vins. Un château bordelais produit facilement plus de 100 000 bouteilles d'un seul et même vin, assemblé à parti de plusieurs centaines de barriques. S'agit-il d'un industriel ? Une marque connue de vin rouge dans les côtes du Rhône produit facilement plus de 2 millions de bouteilles par an, tout comme les grandes marques réputées de Bordeaux et Bordeaux supérieur. Les grandes maisons de champagne, si l'on se concentre sur les cuvées les plus courantes, produisent régulièrement plusieurs millions de cols d'une même cuvée chaque année. On peut également sortir du pays, et prendre des modèles économiques de l'industrie du vin en Australie, au Chili, ou encore en Californie. L'automatisation et l'industrialisation du processus d'élaboration permet de produire des cuvées homogènes, régulière, à plusieurs millions de bouteilles chaque année. De tels volumes nécessitent un investissement conséquent en cuverie, et le recours de manière importante à l'oenologie corrective moderne. Face a un marché qui recherche des vins faciles à boire, c'est-à-dire aromatique, souple et en même temps propres et nets, on peut peut-être parler d'uniformisation du goût ou de standardisation de la production, mais cela reste malgré tout un marché existant de taille importante, comme celui des pâtes alimentaires ou des céréales de petit-déjeuner, où les économies d’échelle sont nécessaires pour rester compétitif coté prix.

La taille toute relative des cuvées en Alsace

Face à ces chiffres néanmoins, comment qualifier un vin produit à 10 000 bouteilles ? Est-ce vraiment de la production de masse ? 10 000 bouteilles, c’est 75 hl, soit le volume d’un grand foudre en bois. Sur 1223 vins d’Alsace toutes appellations confondues, proposés par 20 maisons et  dégustés le mois dernier, seules 120 cuvées affichaient un volume de production supérieur à 10 000 bouteilles. La production alsacienne est morcelée car les exploitations sont de petite taille, et chaque exploitation produit entre 15 et 30 cuvées différentes. La cave de Ribeauvillé compte par exemple plus de 240 hectares de vigne en exploitation, mais ce sont plus de 200 lots qui sont vinifiés individuellement chaque année, et au moins 60 cuvées produites sous les différentes étiquettes. Loin d’être le symbole d’une viticulture industrielle, si on enlève quelques cuvées génériques commercialisées à l’export ou sous une autre marque en grande distribution, les cuvées commercialisées au caveau (prestige et grands crus) dépassent rarement les 10 000 bouteilles par cuvée. Comme les autres producteurs de Ribeauvillé.

Les petites cuvées de vin d’Alsace, plutôt un bien ou un mal ?

En Alsace, on produit donc très majoritairement des petites cuvées, issues de cépages et lieux dits différents, pour créer une vraie gamme échelonnée dans le style plus ou moins sec et le prix. Les avantages de ce morcellement sont nombreux. En tirant partie de la mosaïque géologique alsacienne, on peut produire des vins de terroir au caractère affirmé, qui donnent un choix vaste aux clients qui trouveront exactement le vin qui correspond à leur goût. Ensuite, produire plusieurs cuvées sur un même cépage permet de proposer à certains revendeurs un vin en exclusivité, qualité recherchée parfois par les grandes surfaces et certains cavistes.

Mais les inconvénients sont également nombreux, véritables pendants de ces avantages. D'abord, communiquer sur un vin, le faire goûter a un coût presque indépendant de son volume. En revanche plus le volume est petit, plus le coût à répercuter sur chaque bouteille est élevé. Ensuite, le tri est nécessaire pour ne pas tout vouloir faire goûter. Un participant professionnel à un salon regroupant plusieurs producteurs peut déguster une centaine de vins dans la journée en visitant une grosse trentaine de producteurs. Il est peu probable qu’en s’arrêtant chez un alsacien en début de matinée il déguste 25 vins du même producteur. Enfin, la chaine de distribution à l’export passe par des intermédiaires grossistes qui ont besoin de gérer des commandes de taille suffisante. Souvent, à moins de 50000 bouteilles on gère des palettes et non des conteneurs entiers, et c’est suffisant pour ne pas accéder à certaines marchés. Pour rappel, un référencement national dans une chaine de supermarchés nécessite généralement pouvoir vendre plus de 100 000 bouteilles du même vin chaque année.

Les cuvées de petit volume peuvent être rentables à condition qu’elles soient valorisées comme des produits d’exception. L’exemple des micro-cuvées de riesling liquoreux sur les rives de la Moselle allemande montre que cela est possible. Mais outre la qualité extraordinaire, les prix élevés et les quantités minuscules de ces cuves, il y a surtout un marché derrière prêt à acheter ces vins chaque année. Les micro-cuvées de moins de 1000  bouteilles en Alsace auraient-elles un succès commercial similaire ? Sous quelles conditions ?

Produire plus et bon pour être visible, le challenge des producteurs alsaciens

Certaines maisons spécialisées dans l’export comme les producteurs-négociants Hugel ou Trimbach élaborent des cuvées de bonne qualité produites dans des volumes dépassant les 250 000 bouteilles. On comprend mieux le caractère exceptionnel en Alsace d’une telle production à ce niveau de qualité, et le fait qu’elles se retrouvent souvent sans beaucoup de concurrence sur des marchés lointains où il faut pouvoir vendre 50 000 bouteilles pour être accepté par les importateurs. Malheureusement, produire ces cuvées est difficile. La production alsacienne est hétérogène, le morcellement des terroirs et les pentes abruptes de certains coteaux empêchant de produire du vin de qualité dont les coûts de revient seraient baissées par une mécanisation importante. Il faut assembler des parcelles à la production variable en maturité et en style, voire acheter des lots pour créer une cuvée au style homogène. Le Nord de l’Alsace est peut-être plus favorisé, les collines du Kochersberg ou la zone de Wissembourg étant plus favorables au développement de parcelles uniformes. Le développement de cuvées produites en volume important pourrait s’y développer, à condition de simplifier l’offre, de régler la question des conditions de production, et IGP/AOP et donc d’aborder l’épineux problème des IGP/AOP.

Un restaurateur me demandait récemment un conseil d’achat. Il cherchait un producteur capable de lui vendre 1000 bouteilles de riesling tous les ans, de bonne qualité et surtout de style homogène d’année en année, à prix raisonnable. J’avoue qu’après une longue réflexion, et une intense consultation de mes notes de dégustation sur les millésimes 2005 à 2009, j’en suis arrivé à la conclusion que la seule réponse possible revenait à énoncer une banale liste de noms très connus en Alsace.

En attendant le jour où l’Alsace rejoindra les autres régions par une production de bonne qualité disponible sur des volumes importants, l’amateur qui veut bien boire continuera de s’approvisionner chez les quelques vignerons d’élite qui produisent peu mais très bon, ou sortira la bouteille du petit producteur inconnu de derrière les fagots, qu’il aura repéré dans son supermarché local.

Thierry Meyer

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