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Chronique du 4 novembre 2011 : Steingold, le pied de nez aux grands crus de la Cave de Pfaffenheim Version imprimable Suggérer par mail

La cave de Pfaffenheim a connu un essor formidable dans les années 80, quand sous l’impulsion du directeur Alex Heinrich et du directeur technique Michel Kueny : la volonté de faire bien et les investissement techniques entrepris ont permis de relever le niveau des vins produits par la cave. La longue liste des vins proposés au tarif est longue, et on retrouve pour chaque cépage une gamme qui va du vin de réserve à la sélection de grains nobles, en passant par les cuvées médaillées, les lieux-dits, les grands crus puis les vendanges tardives. Depuis quelques années, cet échelonnement est bouleversé par l’apparition de cuvées spéciales proposant une marque forte. On a connu le Black Tie, assemblage de riesling et pinot gris sensé convenir à la table comme un bon compromis entre ceux que rebutent l’acidité du riesling et la douceur du pinot gris. Voilà maintenant depuis quelques années le Steingold, gewurztraminer riche et profond issu de l’assemblage de deux grands crus, Steinert et Goldert. Cela serait acceptable, mais en vendant ce vin classé en AOC Alsace plus cher que tous les grands crus de la cave, en particulier les cuvées de gewurztraminer grand cru Steinert et Goldert, quel message envoie la cave sur sa valorisation des grands crus ?

Née pour le 50e anniversaire de la cave de Pfaffenheim/Gueberschwihr, l’idée d’une cuvée commémorative unissant les deux crus des deux villages de la cave était intéressante à titre culturel. Visiblement le marché a suivi malgré le prix élevé (ou grâce à lui ?), puisque depuis le premier millésime 2005 trois autres millésimes ont été produits. Une cuvée AOC Alsace qui n’est pas une vendange tardive, proposée plus cher que tous les grands crus au tarif, ça fait réfléchir.

Le nom Steingold s’explique par l’assemblage des mots STEINert et GOLDert, deux grands crus qui donnent des vins profonds et amples, aptes à la grande garde. Mais pourquoi vendre cette cuvée 15€ départ cave, alors que les gewurztraminers Grands Crus Steinert ou Goldert sont seulement vendus 12.5€ départ cave ? C’est peut-être que la demande est plus forte, que la marque propre est plus facile à promouvoir qu’un terroir collectif, et que le nom fait plus rêver que les lieux-dits. En outre, la mention des grands crus d’origine est en train de disparaître des brochures, et les dernières versions font appel à la traduction du mot valise Steingold = l’Or de la Terre, nom évocateur de terroir plus marquant que celui des crus, à l’image du fameux « Sang des Cailloux » de la vallée du Rhône. Derrière l’appellation Alsace, aucune garantie n’est donnée que la cuvée soit effectivement produite à partir de vignes originaires de grands crus, et lorsque la dénomination « Or de la Terre » aura complètement remplacé l’explication originale de l’assemblage de grands crus, fort de son succès la cave pourra certainement  créer un assemblage riche à partir d’autres parcelles.

Un des avantages de l’usage de l’AOC Alsace, c’est qu’on joue en seconde division. Le Gewurztraminer Steingold est certes primé au concours des gewurztraminers du Monde, mais il ne joue pas dans la catégorie « Lieux-dits », « Grands Crus » ou « Vendanges Tardives », juste dans la catégorie « Générique », la plus simple. Au Royaume des aveugles, les borgnes sont rois, et une Médaille d’Or c’est un Médaille d’Or... J’ai découvert la première cuvée produite, Seingold 2005, à l’aveugle au milieu d’autres gewurztraminers génériques,  et ai été un des premiers à reconnaître la grande qualité de ce vin, qui allait au-delà de ce qu’on attend d’un gewurztraminer générique. J’ai d’ailleurs noté le gewurztraminer Steingold 2005 16/20, une très bonne note probablement aussi haute voire meilleure que les notes données aux grands crus de la cave.

Si le prix de vente des grands crus ne décolle pas, c’est probablement faute d’une promotion suffisante, mais aussi d’une qualité qui reste médiocre pour ce qui est supposé représenter l’excellence des Grands Blancs d’Alsace. Le constat est effarant : deux tiers des centaines de vins classés Alsace Grand Cru que je déguste chaque année depuis 10 ans ne présentent pas un caractère particulier signant leur noble origine, et si ce sont parfois de bons vins de cépage bien faits et un peu plus concentrés que la moyenne, ils ne méritent certainement pas l’appellation grand cru suivie du nom de leur terroir. Je précise tout de suite que la même proportion se retrouve sur les premiers et grands crus bourguignons, et que ce n’est pas forcément un mal uniquement alsacien, à la différence que la notoriété des crus d’Alsace reste inférieure à celle de ses prestigieux voisins.

La meilleure manière pour un domaine de faire la promotion des ses grands vins est peut-être celle qui consiste à gérer sa propre marque, et à faire sa propre communication sans dépendre d’un groupement de producteurs qui peine à avoir un message uniforme et clair complété par un vin en adéquation avec ce message . Les trois célèbres maisons de négoce Hugel, Léon Beyer et Trimbach ont fait le choix assumé de pas revendiquer l’appellation Grand Cru pour leurs cuvées phare issues de grands terroirs, et défendent leur nom propre, avec des cuvées emblématiques et très connues portant les marques Jubilée, Comtes d’Eguisheim, ou Clos Sante Hune. La stratégie choisie par la cave de Pfaffenheim ressemble finalement à cette technique, et dans les dernières brochures reçues par mailing,  les spécialités maison sont mises en avant bien plus que les terroirs : Gentil de Pfaff’, Black Tie, Steingold, Cuvées Ancestrum à la bouteille si particulière etc.

Loin de vouloir ironiser sur un succès commercial, la réflexion que m’inspire cet exemple porte sur l’évolution de l’appellation grand cru, et sur la manière de concilier des intérêts parfois divergent chez les producteurs. Je me demande comment la commission chargée du développement des Grands Crus d’Alsace arrivera à intégrer les besoins d‘une telle cave, visiblement aux antipodes de l’approche terroir revendiquée par les meilleurs producteurs. Et j’en viens à rêver d’une appellation intermédiaire qui signalerait au consommateur un vin de cépage de qualité premium sans pour autant devoir se rattacher à un lien au terroir. Saint Emilion a ses grands crus (autorisé lorsque le vin dépasse 12,5% d’alcool, sans terroir particulier), et ses grands crus classés (issu d’un processus de révision devenu complexe avec la volatilité des marchés). Le vignoble luxembourgeois a ses premiers crus et grands premiers crus, décidés après dégustation des vins par un jury, indépendamment du terroir d’origine. Pourquoi ne pas proposer une appellation « Alsace Grand Cru » accolée à un cépage, pour signaler des origines et des conditions d’élaboration particulières ? La presse gastronomique est déjà souvent dans cette logique quand elle suggère des accords mets et vins, en recommandant un riesling sur un poisson, et un riesling Grand Cru sur un poisson noble. Une telle séparation permettrait de conserver des conditions de production drastiques sur des vins de terroir revendiquant une typicité forte sur un lieu-dit donné, sans que cette quête d’excellence soufre de compromis à faire avec ceux qui ont juste besoin sur leurs marchés d’une reconnaissance officielle de la qualité supérieure de certains vins de cépage, qui aille au-delà des médailles et autres récompenses qu’il faut re-gagner chaque année.

Sans vouloir jeter la pierre à quiconque, il serait grand temps de reconnaître que l’appellation Actuelle Alsace Grand Cru ne peut pas répondre aux besoins de tous ceux qui l’utilisent, et que s’il faut définir des règles uniques, le nivellement n’est pas une bonne solution, qu’il se fasse par le bas ou par le haut.

Thierry Meyer

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