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Chronique du 4 décembre 2011 : 593 bouteilles ont fait leur coming-out Version imprimable Suggérer par mail

La vente aux enchères de la Confrérie Saint Etienne organisée le 26 novembre 2011 au Château de Kientzheim a été l’occasion de sortir 593 bouteilles de vin d’Alsace Sigillés de l’oenothèque de la Confrérie Saint Etienne. 593 bouteilles qui ont quitté leur statut de bouteille sigillée portant mention du cépage et du millésime, généralement servie à l’aveugle lors des chapitres officiels, pour retrouver le pedigree de leur terroir d’origine, et surtout le nom du vinificateur qui les a fait naître. Des bouteilles qui pourront désormais s’afficher clairement dans leur nouvelle vie, par exemple lors d’un diner organisé par l’Oenothèque Alsace, qui a souvent mis nombre de vins de millésimes anciens issus des précédentes ventes au programme de ses menus. Car si la vente a connu un réel succès avec plus de 24000€ de collectés, soit un prix moyen par bouteille supérieur à 40€, c’est grâce à la présence dans de nombreux lots de domaines prestigieux comme Hugel, Kuentz-Bas, Trimbach, Weinbach ou Zind-Humbrecht. Des domaines dont le nom n’a jamais été prononcé par aucun des organisateurs de la vente, le notaire Maître Burdloff se contentant de décrire chaque lot mis en vente en ne précisant que le cépage et le millésime, chacun étant libre de regarder le catalogue et les photos affichées des bouteilles pour voir le nom de la cuvée et celui du producteur. Le succès d’une telle vente montre cependant bien que derrière les appellations, c’est au producteur qu’il faut rendre hommage. C'est donc un véritable coming-out que les bouteilles issues de l'Oenothèque ont pu réaliser, en quittant le service anonyme à l'aveugle qui est la règle à la confrérie pour devenir des bouteilles légendaires à part entières, aptes à garnir tant par leur contenu que par leur étiquette les plus belles tables du monde.

Le succès naturel et répété des vins des grandes maisons

Les lots les plus chers sont bien entendus les lots contenant des bouteilles de domaine très connu, à la réputation internationale. On notera un début de vente relativement discret, les trois premiers lots étant adjugé à 80 € maximum pour une mise à prix de 50 €. On arrive au lot numéro quatre, comprenant des bouteilles du domaine Albert Boxler, Kuentz-Bas, et Albert Mann. Immédiatement, les enchères monteront à 310 €, pour une mise à prix de 50 €. Le lot suivant, mis à prix à 50 € également, ne dépassera pas 70 €, faute de producteurs aussi réputés. Sur le reste des lots, les grands noms ont fait recette, même dans de petits millésimes. On arrive même au paradoxe de voir des lots de millésimes difficiles comme 1977 ou 1972 partirent à des prix aussi élevés que les légendaires 1976 et 1971. Certes, le filtre de sélection de la confrérie Saint-Étienne représente une opportunité sans égale d'acquérir des bouteilles anniversaire parmi les plus réussis de l'année, mais force est de constater que certaines maisons ont une autorité telle que la valeur des vins s'envole, même dans les petites années. Un phénomène semblable à ce qu'on retrouve à Bordeaux, les meilleurs crus classés se vendant à des tarifs prohibitifs dans des années comme 1984 ou 1974.

Une erreur de jugement sur les millésimes anciens profitable aux amateurs

C'est malgré toute une erreur de jugement selon moi que de négliger les vins de maison réputée, surtout dans les millésimes anciens, car le Sigille des années 50 et 60 récompensait souvent exclusivement des vins de grands terroirs. Les producteurs emmenaient leurs meilleures cuvées pour obtenir le Sigille de qualité, sur une échelle absolue, en l'absence de l'appellation Alsace Grand cru, ce qui permettait de trouver de grands vins dans quasiment tous les cépages. Une bonne connaissance des producteurs et de leurs pratiques de l'époque permet d'apprendre la noble origine de nombreuses cuvées. Ainsi, le muscat 1967 du domaine Zind Humbrecht est originaire du grand cru Goldert, le riesling 1973 du domaine Weinbach est originaire du grand cru Schlossberg, le gewurztraminer 1967 du domaine Paul Ginglinger est originaire du grand cru Eichberg : derrière la notoriété du domaine, on retrouve également de grands terroirs sur les vieux millésimes. Mais on retrouve ces mêmes terroirs auprès de maisons moins réputées, en particulier des producteurs-négociants qui ont toujours su où rechercher les meilleurs raisins. L'extraordinaire sylvaner 1952 de la maison Willm trouve son origine dans le Grand cru Kirchberg de Barr, et le muscat 1966 « cuvée extra » de Jérôme Lorentz est certainement originaire d'un grand cru de Bergheim. Des recherches sur les cuvées Sigillé dégustées avec bonheur ces dernières années ont montré que certaines cuvées anciennes possédaient de nombreuses qualités liées à leur terroir : le pinot 1961 de la cave de Beblenheim est originaire du grand cru Sonnenglanz, le sylvaner 1953 de la cave de Bennwihr certainement originaire du grand cru Marckrain ou Mambourg, sans oublier le gewurztraminer 1959 de la cave coopérative d'Eguisheim, originaire du grand cru Pfersigberg. Les millésimes anciens de l'oenothèque de la confrérie Saint-Étienne méritent donc une attention particulière, indépendamment de leurs producteurs, et si certains amateurs ont négligé ces cuvées au profit de nom de producteurs plus réputés, ce fut une fois de plus une excellente opportunité d’achat pour les meilleurs connaisseurs des grands vins d'Alsace.

L’arrivée des Grands Crus a changé la donne du Sigille de la confrérie

Alors qu'en l'absence de mention de lieux-dits, le Sigille de la confrérie Saint-Étienne était garant de la qualité des terroirs d'origine, l'arrivée de l'appellation Alsace Grand cru en 1983 puis en 1993 a radicalement changé la donne. D'une part, la majorité des grandes maisons a commencé à revendiquer cette appellation, indiquant sans ambiguïté quelle était la cuvée la plus prestigieuse du domaine, ce qui a rendu le Sigille de moins crucial. D'autre part, la création d'une catégorie spécifique consacrée aux vins de l'AOC Alsace dans le concours du Sigille a permis à des cuvées de moindre qualité d’être sélectionnées, sans devoir prendre le risque de se mesurer à des cuvées originaires de grands terroirs. Si un sylvaner Sigillé des années 50 est très certainement originaires d'un grand terroir, celui des années 90 l’est probablement moins. D'autant plus que certaines bouteilles positionnées en entrée de gamme ne sont pas des vins aptes à une grande garde, contrairement aux vins anciens qui ont séjourné parfois plus de 50 ans dans l'oenothèque de la confrérie. Ainsi, le pinot blanc de la cave de Beblenheim proposé au Sigille ces dernières années n'est qu'un lot parmi tant d'autres, dont la qualité le destine à un positionnement possible comme vins sigillé, un vin fruité et gouleyant proposé quelque part entre la cuvée réserve et la cuvée médaille d'or. Certains conseillers de la Confrérie Saint-Etienne affirment que la création de l'appellation Alsace Grand cru a fortement réduit l'intérêt du Sigille, dans tous les cas il est clair que le caractère de filtre qualitatif a souffert de cette nouvelle appellation.

Perspectives sur le contenu de l'oenothèque, et conséquences pour le Sigille et la Confrérie Saint-Etienne

La présence de vins de gamme moindre n'est qu'un des aspects du problème de positionnement du Sigille actuelle. Le point le plus important est que les cuvées réputées des producteurs à forte notoriété, qui ont fait le succès du Sigille dans les années 50 et 60, et surtout le gros des ventes aux enchères récemment organisées, sont des cuvées qui ne sont actuellement plus présentées au Sigille. La grande majorité des producteurs renommés a cessé de présenter des vins au concours annuel, lassés de se voir refuser le Sigille au prétexte parfois non avoué d'une sucrosité insuffisante, ou alors peu motivés de participer à une confrérie qui a perdu de son caractère élitiste d'antan. En vendant les pépites de son oenothèque, produites par les plus grands domaines alsaciens de l’époque, mais sans faire entrer dans l’oenothèque de cuvées équivalentes des meilleurs producteurs actuels, c'est la qualité moyenne de l'oenothèque qui subit un lent déclin, et c'est tout le principe historique élitiste de la confrérie Saint-Étienne qui est mis à mal. Que restera-t-il du prestige du Sigille de la confrérie dans 15 ou 20 ans, si qualitativement le macaron ne vaut pas beaucoup mieux aux yeux des consommateurs qu'une médaille d'or glanée ici ou là, ou qu'une étoile dans le guide Hachette ? Tant que l’oenothèque sera alimentée par des vins primés à un concours dont la qualité des participants est en baisse, la spirale descendante continuera. Les membres éminents du grand conseil de la confrérie vivent ce dilemme : ils doivent choisir entre un retour plus exclusif à une forme d’élitisme, et une rente de situation permettant de faire vivre leur association (le Sigille étant désormais ouvert à tous les producteurs alsaciens, membres ou non de la Confrérie), entrainant une lente perte de notoriété qui finira par réduire la confrérie à une association folklorique régionale, avec ses costumes et les chants qui feront le bonheur des touristes de passage.  Compte tenu de l’âge souvent élevé des conseillers les plus actifs, je ne suis pas sûr que l’avenir lointain de la Confrérie les préoccupe tant que cela.

En attendant, les lecteurs seront heureux de retrouver quelques cuvées issues de millésimes anciens au menu des repas organisés par l’Oenothèque Alsace, annoncés de manière claire dans chaque menu, avec mention du cépage, de la cuvée, du millésime et du producteur.

Thierry Meyer

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